Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Catching Up In Malawi

This is posted in reverse chronological order. If you're like me -- one of those compulsive types who likes to have things in (decently and in) order, skip down to June 28th and read up! :-)

Tuesday, June 30


Some Thoughts on Orphanages

Today I visited a second orphanage. The first week I was here I visited the Ministry of Hope – the Orphanage where Katie and Sandy found Miriam and Moses. This orphanage is smallish. They have mostly babies – but some of the children are approaching the 24 month mark. All of the children crave attention and it is so hard not to be able to give them what they need.

We tend to think of orphans as children who have no parents. Here in Malawi – as in many other countries of the world – it is possible to have one parent and be considered an orphan. Many of the children's mothers died in, or soon after, childbirth and the fathers were unable to care for them. The children are brought to the Ministry of hope – often very ill, often malnourished – where they are cared for until they are strong enough to return to their village.

The Ministry of Hope is clean, but crowded. The women work tirelessly to keep the children clean and fed and to give them the love and attention they can. Volunteers come in irregularly to hold the babies and play with the older children.

Sandy told a story of how one day one of Madonna’s representatives came into the Ministry. She proceeded to criticize everything about the place and everyone in it. She had one of the women take the pajamas off a couple of the children and a professional photographer took pictures. Apparently these pictures are being used to for Madonna’s Malawian projects – but none of the money goes to the Ministry of Hope.

Grrrrrr.

Today I went with Sandy’s friend, Catherine, to St. Teresa’s Orphanage. This establishment had mostly babies and toddlers; but, they had older children as well -- about 80 children total. The oldest there was a young woman of 16. The older children help with the younger and it is heartwarming to witness the love and devotion they have for their younger “siblings.”

As is the case at the Ministry of Hope, many of the children are brought in because their mothers have died. Many are very ill and malnourished. The Sisters at the orphanage and the women feed and care for and love them back to health. When they are strong enough (usually around 4 years old), they are returned to their villages. From time-to-time, though, the villages do not want them – particularly in the case of multiple births.

As soon as we arrived Catherine gave a quick tour and we went to the infants’ room where I was introduced to two surviving girl triplets. Catherine said their mother died in childbirth who were born, apparently, very prematurely. The grandmother stayed with the infants and did what she could, but she just couldn’t cope. One of the girls died. When the two remaining girls were brought to the ministry of hope, the smaller of the two almost didn’t make it. They are now six-months old and “flourishing” as well as might be expected; but, even with that, they weigh less than my granddaughter, Brooke, weighed when she was born.

It is difficult to explain how your heart can simultaneously break and expand to maximum fullness at the same time. It breaks for the suffering these children have experienced and the knowledge that their lives most likely will never be easy. At the same time, I cannot help but be overwhelmed with gratitude for those who rescued these little ones, and those who tend to their needs and love and care for them. I am grateful that while their lives may be difficult by our Western standards, their futures are infinitely brighter than they were just a short time ago.

Catherine and I were at Mother Teresa’s for a little over an hour. In that time we held the babies and spent some time with the older children. It was gut wrenching to have fifteen little ones reaching and grabbing, begging to be held. Catherine sat on the floor and they climbed all over her. I think if I went back a few times I could get to that place. It was all I could do to “high-five” as many as I could, pick up few and pat and hug those closest to me. As we left I was sure one or two would remain stuck to my legs all the way back to the States.

Catherine, I believe, is a force of nature in her own right. She has started a couple of feeding programs and is helping a few folks build their houses – using the habitat, sweat equity, model. When she first came to Malawi she wasn’t sure how much she wanted to be involved. Catherine didn’t want to start something and then find herself posted elsewhere, unable to continue what she started. But, then she thought if she spent the time doing something instead of thinking about it, she would at least get something done. Catherine said we think too much about stuff instead of doing it.

I think she’s right.

Preach the Gospel at all times. If necessary, use words. St. Francis of Assisi

Monday, June 29

To Market, to Market to Buy – from among an amazing array of foods and goods.

Today we went to the Lilongwe Market – right down the block from the Lilongwe Mini-Bus Depot (a whole ‘nother story!). We picked up Sandy’s friend, Elsa, for our guide. Sandy had never been in this part of the market before. I don’t think Elsa had been there too often herself, but she was ready to lead us on the adventure.

When we entered the market we were greeted by women selling the most appealing variety of peas and dried beans. The colors alone made me want to buy some. There were several narrow alleys to choose from, so we charged (as well as you could down a four-foot wide corridor crowded with people) down the alley straight in front of us. After winding down a few more corridors we came upon the fresh vegetables. I don’t think I’d want to shop for veggies in a supermarket ever again. The market vegetables make the supermarket veggies look anemic. The carrots were big and plump. The green beans were a vibrant shade of green, the lettuce leaves were Texan sized, etc. The Lilongwe Market seemed to me to have a wider variety of produce, as well. It would take me some time, though, to work up the courage to go to the market alone.

Elsa took us to see the fish. There was a whole section where piles of fish on tables were being sold. You could buy a whole fish, but you’d have to clean it yourself. Since fish I’m accustomed to dealing with swim in fillets, I’m not sure I’d know what to do with what I saw. I’m also not sure how long that fish was out in the hot sun.

On our way to the fish we took a turn down an alley not many women traverse. It was “automotive row.” I have never seen a car engine out of the car – in rusty, unidentifiable pieces. I saw my fill of them on that trek! The automotive "department" was comprised of a series of shorter aisles with loads of men coming and going. The sellers were quite amused to see the three of us scurrying through on our way to the fish.

Just before we left we peeked behind one of the main alleys at the entrance and, lo and behold! There was a long row of women selling textiles. We took a quick peek – beautiful fabrics in vibrant colors. Unfortunately, we had to scurry home and didn’t have time for a full investigation. We’ll do that first next time.

Sunday, June 28
I Saw A Third of the Country!

It has been a while since I’ve written. So sorry. The days go fast.

On Sunday we had an excursion to Lake Malawi. Lake Malawi takes up about 1/3 of the country. Visiting the Lake seemed like something one ought to do since it’s hard to be completely out of it's neighborhood. So, we stopped by. The place we went was a little over 90 minutes away from where Sandy and Maitland live in Lilongwe.

Lake Malawi is beautiful. It was a perfect day to be at the lake – even if a bit nippy for swimming. There were a number of people in the surf, so it couldn’t have been that bad. The sun was warm and I guess that was enough.

As beautiful as the day was, it wasn’t quite clear enough to get a good sighting of Mozambique. I could barely make the land out, but there it was. So, now I can say I’ve seen three African countries. I spent the night in South Africa; I’ve visited Malawi and I got a glimpse of Mozambique. Okay. So South Africa and Mozambique don’t really count – but I can put them on my resume anyway!

On the way home we stopped at a tourist market along the Salima Road. There were a number of stalls selling carved goods of all kinds from napkin rings to elephants. Some were selling woven items made out of (I think) bamboo, like place mats and floor mats, bags to carry groceries and toys! Maitland and Sandy bought Moses a woven helicopter. It has a little bamboo ball for a front wheel and when Moses scoots it on the floor the rotor goes around and around. It’s quite sophisticated. Miriam got a jeep, complete with an engine under the bonnet and a trunk strapped to the top. I think, though, that it is not nearly as fascinating as Moses’ whirling rotators. Alas!

The scenery here is amazing. As many of you know, my appreciation for God’s creation has crept up on me late in life. I still relate best to whatever greenery spouts between concrete slabs. The scenery here is quite amazing. Rolling hills dotted with villages, and everywhere we drive, people are walking, walking walking. Many of the women are carrying obviously incredibly heavy loads on their heads. The women here have incredibly remarkable posture, and I’ve finally figured out why. You can’t balance a five gallon bucket of water on your head and slouch at the same time.

The men are frequently balancing huge piles of wood or multiple sacks of grain (easily 50 lb sacks!) or long, long stalks of sugar cane on their bikes. As they walk, they lean into the load to keep it upright and moving. I am utterly amazed and the strength and stamina of these folks. I am such a wimp.

A slouchy wimp, at that!

1 comment:

  1. I am thoroughly enjoying reading of your adventures. Keep it up!

    ReplyDelete